An indulgent casserole of portofino lamb or a patila of salubrious butter chicken brimming with aromas? The choice, for most of us, is a no-brainer. Gastronomes have been quick to write off unabashed lovers of butter chicken as ignoramuses. This hubris is preempted by the logic that those who love the humble dish are perhaps not exposed to the riveting ambit of the culinary world. But in fact, it is a rationale that disproves itself, for those who swear by the dish, do so not because of the paucity of knowledge of trailblazing culinary alternatives, but rather because of its inherent simplicity.

It is thus brave of those who continue to bet their money on such a dish at a time when the industry is looking to modernise every pickle and papad they can lay their hands on. Even if it comes at the cost of being tagged as pedestrian. It is as possible to build an unflinching defence in its case based on notes from your Zomato order history, as it is easy to find it in the legacy left behind by the late S Kulwant Singhji Kohli. He breathed his last on July 17 after helming Pritam Group for decades. Founded in 1942 by Singh's father, this is the same hospitality chain that has been credited for making the northern Indian delicacy popular in Mumbai. Now, we hear that in another six months the company will be launching a butter chicken brand under his name and in his memory.